Take a look at sustainable fashion and the first thing you see when it comes to cotton is the word organic. Although we are all familiar with the word "organic" (sometimes also called "bio" or "eco/eco" in some countries), in terms of cotton, it refers to cotton grown according to the principles of organic farming. Conventional cotton is very different from its organic equivalent, including in the way it is produced and distributed. There is a big difference between traditional cotton and its organic counterpart. [Sources: 3, 8, 9, 13]
Organic cotton still uses only naturally occurring chemicals that proponents say are less harmful, although there is some evidence that some organic pesticides may be worse for the environment than conventional ones. About Organic Cotton, a textile exchange-funded non-profit resource for sustainable textile production, uses 88% less water to produce than conventional cotton, according to About Organic Cotton. [Sources: 2, 4]
Conventional cotton (also known as non-organic cotton) uses 24% of the world's insecticides and 11% of all pesticides. It is usually grown using irrigation water and often GMOs. Organic cotton is grown without any harsh chemicals, mostly in rainfed fields and using only natural fertilizers. Certifications such as GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) also stipulate that organic cotton cannot be grown using genetically modified seeds, which could threaten biodiversity. Organic cotton also has social criteria that ensure fair wages for decent wages and protect agricultural workers from child labor, forced labor and labor restrictions. Organic cotton is a good sustainable solution that is grown without the use of pesticides from seeds that have not been genetically modified. Currently, less than one percent of the cotton used in the world is organic. [Sources: 1, 4, 11]
Conventional cotton uses 5.7% of the world's pesticides and 16.1% of insecticides, despite occupying only 2.4% of agricultural land. Conversely, regular cotton is sprayed with massive amounts of pesticides to stimulate growth. [Sources: 15]
More and more attention is being paid to organically grown cotton to try and prevent the amount of pesticides being used to spray the cotton crop. A serious problem of traditionally grown cotton is the massive use of water and pesticides. According to Cotton Inc., about half of the world's cotton, both organic and conventional, gets its water from rain. It is well known that the cultivation of cotton and the production of clothing in general requires a significant amount of water. [Sources: 2, 6, 10, 12]
According to the World Wildlife Fund, it takes 2,700 liters of water to make one cotton T-shirt. Use doesn't sound bad until you realize that a kilo of cotton fiber requires an astronomical amount of water. It takes 10,000 to 20,000 liters of water to produce a kilogram of cotton, and about 2,700 liters of water is required to produce a cotton shirt. Generally, a cotton plant needs the same amount of water whether it is organic or not, and even non-organic farmers use a variety of methods to keep their soil healthy. [Sources: 2, 9, 12, 15]
Whether cotton is grown chemically or organically, every farm and geographic region in the world will have different water use and impacts. Unfortunately, most conventional cotton is grown in drought-prone regions, exacerbating water stress in already fragile regions. [Sources: 6, 15]
This, in turn, means that more natural resources are being used to meet the high demand for cotton. Organic cotton has been found to use 62% less energy to grow and produce than conventional cotton, mainly due to fewer inputs needed such as fertilizer production, regular spraying, irrigation, and tractor operation. Based on the results of the LCA, the production of organic cotton for a medium sized T-shirt resulted in 1,982 gallons of water saved compared to the results of chemically grown cotton. [Sources: 6, 12, 15]
Organic cotton is said to be grown without the use of toxic chemicals, and when used alongside natural dyes, it can also help reduce the amount of chemical waste released into the ecosystem. Organic cotton is produced without toxic pollutants and pesticides, and grown in healthier soils. For this reason, organic cotton fabrics tend to be of much better quality. Another big difference between regular and organic cotton is what happens after it is grown. Compared to the negative environmental impact of conventional cotton, organic cotton should always be the preferred choice if you are aware of the planet. Regular cotton, called the dirtiest crop on Earth, contains pesticides and insecticides that pollute the soil we use to grow crops, the air we breathe, and even the water we drink. [Sources: 0, 8]
Conventional cotton is the most pesticide-dependent crop in the world, accounting for more than 11% of global pesticide use annually1. It has been estimated that 16% of the world's pesticides are used in the cotton industry. Traditional cotton production uses harmful pesticides and chemicals. [Sources: 0, 12, 14]
Organically grown products, including cotton, create a sense of the environment. The production of organic cotton shows that there has been a conscious decision made from farmer to grower to retailer to look for a product that cares about the environment. The environmental impact of growing cotton is the first part of the process when it comes to the fashion industry, but it doesn't stop there. [Sources: 0, 12]
From here, the cotton must be transported, spun, dyed and finished - steps known to be the most environmentally damaging parts of the manufacturing process and must be carefully considered when certifying whether a piece of fabric is truly "organic". or not. The fields must be free of chemicals for three years for the cotton to be certified organic, during which time yields are lower and the farmer does not benefit from the organic surcharge. [Sources: 0, 13]
*Sources
[0]: https://sewport.com/organic-fabrics
[1]: https://imdividual.com/blogs/news/organic-cotton
[2]: https://qz.com/990178/your-organic-cotton-t-shirt-might-be-worse-for-the-environment-than-regular-cotton/
[3]: https://www.ruthmacgilp.com/blog-list/the-ultimate-guide-to-organic-cotton
[4]: https://www.livekindly.co/how-sustainable-is-organic-cotton/
[5]: https://www.ecomasteryproject.com/organic-cotton-mattresses/
[6]: https://www.csrwire.com/press_releases/40120-what-you-wear-matters-quick-guide-to-organic-cotton
[7]: https://jessrigg.com/organic-cotton-everything-you-need-to-know/
[8]: https://www.thewoolroom.com/us/blog/organic-cotton-regular-cotton/
[9]: https://www.eco-stylist.com/is-organic-cotton-really-sustainable/
[10]: https://wildminimalist.com/blogs/news/what-are-the-best-eco-friendly-fabrics-your-complete-guide-to-16-common-materials
[11]: https://goodonyou.eco/know-your-product-a-quick-guide-to-organic-cotton/
[12]: https://blog.treasurie.com/what-is-organic-cotton/
[13]: https://sewrendipity.com/2020/03/03/sustainable-cotton/
[14]: https://grammarnyc.com/pages/sustainability-standards-sourcing-our-fabirc
[15]: https://cariki.co.uk/blogs/the-green-road/why-is-organic-cotton-better
[16]: https://www.brotherswestand.com/blogs/learn-think/a-guide-to-what-makes-organic-cotton-organic
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